The West: A Melting Pot
I was born and raised in Mumbai, which was then called Bombay. As the commer-
cial capital of India, Mumbai attracts people from all over the country who come
to work in finance, business, or films. (India’s film industry, which produces the
largest number of films every year, is based here.) The cuisine of Western India is
a wonderful mix, and I grew up thinking that what I ate was what all of India was
eating. Only when I trained as a chef did I realize how privileged I was to have had
all of India on my plate in my very own home!
Mumbai and the Parsi influence
India saw two important migrations from Iran. The first were the Zoroastrians,
called the Parsis, who arrived around the eighth century as they fled from reli-
gious persecution. They arrived on the west coast of India. From here, they moved
to other parts of the country, many settling in Mumbai. Their cuisine is a fabulous
mix of Indian, Persian, and European styles and is very much a part of the cuisine
of modern Mumbai. Signature dishes include dhansak and patia.
The second group of people were migrants from Iran who came to Bombay in the
19th century for economic reasons. They set up Irani cafes, known for their dis-
tinctive decor, uncomfortable bentwood chairs (no one is encouraged to linger
because trade is brisk), and a unique menu that features dishes like puff-pastry
patties, bread pudding, and ground meat curries served with bread. These cafes
(very reasonably priced) are popular among students and office workers.
This cuisine is one of my favorites, so I always look forward to being invited to a
Parsi wedding. I know the feast will be an extravaganza of fried chicken, meat
curries, and delicious desserts served with jewel-colored sodas.
Pune and the Sindhi influence
The Partition of India and Pakistan was a major event that has shaped the history
of modern India. Around a million Hindu Sindhis, who lived in the Sindh province,
now in Pakistan, are said to have moved to India. Many settled around Bombay
and the nearest large town, Pune. They brought a cuisine that was infused with
Persian and Arabic flavors but was essentially cooked with a few Indian spices.
I’ve seen a good number of fried foods, such as breads and potatoes, in this meal
that are hazardous to my waistline, but there are also recipes for green vegetables,
lentils, and chicken that I love for their freshness. My Sindhi friends often serve
papads (popadams; the Sindhis are well known for their love of these) with the
meal, but never with dips as found in Indian restaurants in the West.
Konkan’s golden coastlines
I’ve never forgotten the short plane trip I made a few years ago from Mumbai to
Mangalore on the west coast of India. The plane flew low, and the view was unbro-
ken blue sea bordered by a narrow strip of golden sand merging with lush palm
trees. The Arabian Sea along the coast of Konkan provides the perfect ingredients
for a cuisine rich in fish and seafood. The trees give coconuts that are grated into
curries to make creamy sauces. Tangy fish curries flavored with tamarind or
kokum (a sour local fruit) are eaten with rice and fried fish or shrimp, dusted with
chile powder, salt, and garlic; they make a regular appearance on the Konkani
table.
The fish markets on the coast are great for tourists, too, because you can just soak
up the atmosphere. At around 7 a.m., the boats come into the dock and, amidst
much excitement and shouting, the catch is offloaded into baskets on shore. Fish-
mongers and restaurants quickly buy what they want, and the rest is sold to home
cooks. Never will you find fresher catch available — and often at a very good price!
Gujarat and its extravagant thalis
Gujarat is the mango-shaped state to the west of India. It’s famous for its delicate,
vegetarian cuisine and especially for the thali, a metal plate with several small
bowls filled with an array of tempting dishes. The word thali means “metal plate,”
but the term has also come to denote the meal that is served on one. A thali has
rice, breads, fried accompaniments called farsans, vegetables, lentils, and sweets,
all served at once. There are no courses, and you can mix and match dishes as you
like.
Because there are so many dishes in this feast, preparing it at home is time-
consuming and expensive. Most people go to a specialty restaurant (or a wedding)
to enjoy it. It’s quite an experience, and best of all, you can eat as much as you
want for a fixed price. I think most people grudgingly stop eating because of guilt
(what will the waiter say?) or food fatigue (I don’t think I’ll make it to the door!).
You can find more about how to create your own thali meal in Chapter 9.
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